
Problems and Symptoms
Yellow or brown leaves, no blooms, root rot, mold on the soil: find the cause from the symptom and fix it.
Most houseplant problems are caused by care and conditions, not disease: too much or too little water, poor drainage, too little light, low humidity or too much fertilizer. Match the symptom to its likely causes in the table below, check the roots whenever a plant wilts or drops leaves, correct every factor that is off, and then watch the new growth over the next three to six weeks to confirm the fix worked.
In this section
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When a plant looks unhappy, the cause is usually in how it is grown. As UC IPM's Houseplant Problems Pest Notes put it, most houseplant problems come from improper care and conditions that are unfavorable for growth, and symptoms are often caused by several factors at once. Diagnose first, then change one thing at a time.
Symptom finder
| Symptom | Most likely causes | First thing to check |
|---|---|---|
| Lower leaves turning yellow | Overwatering, poor drainage, too little light, lack of nitrogen | Is the soil wet an inch down? Is there a drainage hole? |
| New leaves yellow or pale | Overwatering, soil pH or micronutrient problem | Roots and watering routine |
| Brown, crispy leaf tips or edges | Low humidity, soil drying out too far, fertilizer salts, fluoride in tap water | Heating vent nearby? White crust on soil? |
| Drooping or wilting | Underwatering, or root rot from overwatering | Soil moisture, then the roots |
| Sudden leaf drop | Move, draft, cold below 50°F, abrupt change in light | What changed in the last two weeks? |
| Long, stretched stems, small leaves | Too little light | Distance from the window |
| Bleached or scorched patches | Too much direct sun after a move | New spot or a hot, unshaded window? |
| Soft, dark stem base | Overwatering, crown or root rot | Smell and feel the base and roots |
| No flowers | Too little light, wrong day length, too much nitrogen | Light level and season |
| Sticky leaves, webbing, speckling, cottony clumps | Pests | See the pests section |
Watering problems
Iowa State University Extension lists the classic signs of overwatering: yellowing or browning leaves, leaf drop, wilting from a damaged root system, crown rot, fungus gnats and eventually death. The trap is that a waterlogged plant wilts, which prompts more water. Always check the soil before watering, use a pot that is not oversized and has a drainage hole, and never leave the plant standing in a saucer of water.
Underwatered plants wilt too, but the soil is dry and pulls away from the pot edge, and leaves turn crisp rather than soft. Soak the root ball thoroughly, ideally by setting the pot in a basin of water for 20 to 30 minutes.
Detailed guides: yellow leaves, overwatering, root rot and drooping.
Brown tips and leaf edges
According to Iowa State's guide to environmental problems, low humidity is the most common reason for brown leaf tips, especially in winter. Letting the soil dry out too long between waterings, fertilizer salt buildup and fluoride or chlorine in tap water are the other usual suspects; spider plants, dracaenas, prayer plants and calatheas are especially sensitive. Trimming the brown part improves the look, but new tips will brown unless the cause is fixed. More in brown tips.
Light problems
Leggy growth with long gaps between leaves is almost always low light. Move the plant closer to a bright window or add a grow light, then prune the stretched stems so new growth comes in compact. Too much light shows as bleached or brown patches on the side facing the window, usually right after a move. See leggy plants.
Leaf drop and no blooms
Plants such as weeping fig drop leaves after almost any change: a move, a draft, a cold window in January. Keep conditions steady and the plant usually regrows within weeks. Failure to bloom is usually a light problem; some species also need a day-length or temperature cue, which is covered in not blooming and on each plant's card.
Mold, spots and rot
White fuzz on the soil surface is a sign the soil stays wet too long; it rarely harms the plant directly. Leaf spots on indoor plants are more often caused by overwatering, cold water or chemical sprays than by infection, since fungal and bacterial leaf diseases are uncommon indoors unless a plant recently came from a greenhouse or the outdoors. See mold on soil and leaf spots.
When to start over
UC IPM is candid that some plants cannot be brought back: if the roots are mostly gone or a pest is entrenched, it can be better to take healthy cuttings or replace the plant. Many common houseplants, including pothos, tradescantia and snake plant, root easily from cuttings, so a failing plant is often a chance to propagate rather than a loss. Each plant in the catalog has its own symptom table.
Frequently asked questions
Why are my plant's leaves turning yellow?
Should I cut off yellow or brown leaves?
How do I know if my plant is overwatered or underwatered?
Can a plant with root rot be saved?
Why won't my houseplant bloom?
What is the white mold on top of my plant's soil?
Sources
Facts on this page were checked against these publications. Links open in a new tab.
- Iowa State University Extension — diagnosing houseplant problems improper environmental conditions yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu
- Iowa State University Extension — diagnosing houseplant problems related poor culture yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu
- UC Statewide IPM Program ipm.ucanr.edu