A houseplant reference: a care card for every plant
Close-up of a houseplant leaf with a yellowing edge
Section

Problems and Symptoms

Yellow or brown leaves, no blooms, root rot, mold on the soil: find the cause from the symptom and fix it.

Yellow leavesBrown tipsNot bloomingDropping leavesMold on soilRoot rot

Most houseplant problems are caused by care and conditions, not disease: too much or too little water, poor drainage, too little light, low humidity or too much fertilizer. Match the symptom to its likely causes in the table below, check the roots whenever a plant wilts or drops leaves, correct every factor that is off, and then watch the new growth over the next three to six weeks to confirm the fix worked.

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When a plant looks unhappy, the cause is usually in how it is grown. As UC IPM's Houseplant Problems Pest Notes put it, most houseplant problems come from improper care and conditions that are unfavorable for growth, and symptoms are often caused by several factors at once. Diagnose first, then change one thing at a time.

Symptom finder

SymptomMost likely causesFirst thing to check
Lower leaves turning yellowOverwatering, poor drainage, too little light, lack of nitrogenIs the soil wet an inch down? Is there a drainage hole?
New leaves yellow or paleOverwatering, soil pH or micronutrient problemRoots and watering routine
Brown, crispy leaf tips or edgesLow humidity, soil drying out too far, fertilizer salts, fluoride in tap waterHeating vent nearby? White crust on soil?
Drooping or wiltingUnderwatering, or root rot from overwateringSoil moisture, then the roots
Sudden leaf dropMove, draft, cold below 50°F, abrupt change in lightWhat changed in the last two weeks?
Long, stretched stems, small leavesToo little lightDistance from the window
Bleached or scorched patchesToo much direct sun after a moveNew spot or a hot, unshaded window?
Soft, dark stem baseOverwatering, crown or root rotSmell and feel the base and roots
No flowersToo little light, wrong day length, too much nitrogenLight level and season
Sticky leaves, webbing, speckling, cottony clumpsPestsSee the pests section

Watering problems

Iowa State University Extension lists the classic signs of overwatering: yellowing or browning leaves, leaf drop, wilting from a damaged root system, crown rot, fungus gnats and eventually death. The trap is that a waterlogged plant wilts, which prompts more water. Always check the soil before watering, use a pot that is not oversized and has a drainage hole, and never leave the plant standing in a saucer of water.

Underwatered plants wilt too, but the soil is dry and pulls away from the pot edge, and leaves turn crisp rather than soft. Soak the root ball thoroughly, ideally by setting the pot in a basin of water for 20 to 30 minutes.

Detailed guides: yellow leaves, overwatering, root rot and drooping.

Brown tips and leaf edges

According to Iowa State's guide to environmental problems, low humidity is the most common reason for brown leaf tips, especially in winter. Letting the soil dry out too long between waterings, fertilizer salt buildup and fluoride or chlorine in tap water are the other usual suspects; spider plants, dracaenas, prayer plants and calatheas are especially sensitive. Trimming the brown part improves the look, but new tips will brown unless the cause is fixed. More in brown tips.

Light problems

Leggy growth with long gaps between leaves is almost always low light. Move the plant closer to a bright window or add a grow light, then prune the stretched stems so new growth comes in compact. Too much light shows as bleached or brown patches on the side facing the window, usually right after a move. See leggy plants.

Leaf drop and no blooms

Plants such as weeping fig drop leaves after almost any change: a move, a draft, a cold window in January. Keep conditions steady and the plant usually regrows within weeks. Failure to bloom is usually a light problem; some species also need a day-length or temperature cue, which is covered in not blooming and on each plant's card.

Mold, spots and rot

White fuzz on the soil surface is a sign the soil stays wet too long; it rarely harms the plant directly. Leaf spots on indoor plants are more often caused by overwatering, cold water or chemical sprays than by infection, since fungal and bacterial leaf diseases are uncommon indoors unless a plant recently came from a greenhouse or the outdoors. See mold on soil and leaf spots.

When to start over

UC IPM is candid that some plants cannot be brought back: if the roots are mostly gone or a pest is entrenched, it can be better to take healthy cuttings or replace the plant. Many common houseplants, including pothos, tradescantia and snake plant, root easily from cuttings, so a failing plant is often a chance to propagate rather than a loss. Each plant in the catalog has its own symptom table.

Frequently asked questions

Why are my plant's leaves turning yellow?
Overwatering and poor drainage are the most common causes, followed by too little light, cold drafts and lack of nitrogen. One old lower leaf yellowing now and then is normal aging. Widespread yellowing, especially with soggy soil, means it is time to check the roots.
Should I cut off yellow or brown leaves?
Yes, once a leaf is mostly yellow it will not recover, and removing it keeps the plant tidy. For brown tips you can trim along the leaf's natural shape with clean scissors, leaving a thin brown edge so you don't cut into healthy tissue.
How do I know if my plant is overwatered or underwatered?
Both cause wilting. Feel the soil and lift the pot: dry, light soil and crispy leaves mean underwatering; wet, heavy soil with soft yellow leaves and a musty smell mean overwatering. If unsure, slide the plant out and look at the roots: healthy ones are firm and usually white or tan, rotten ones are brown, mushy and pull apart.
Can a plant with root rot be saved?
Often, if some firm roots remain. Remove the plant, cut away every soft, dark root with clean shears, repot in fresh, dry-ish mix in a clean pot with drainage and water sparingly until new growth appears. If the stem base is mushy, take cuttings from healthy stems instead.
Why won't my houseplant bloom?
Usually not enough light. Some plants also need a seasonal cue: Christmas cactus and kalanchoe need long, uninterrupted nights; others need cooler nights in fall. Too much nitrogen fertilizer can produce leaves at the expense of flowers.
What is the white mold on top of my plant's soil?
A fuzzy white growth is usually a harmless saprophytic fungus feeding on organic matter in soil that stays wet. A hard white crust is fertilizer or mineral salt. Scrape off the top layer, water less often and improve air flow; flush the pot with water if it is salt.

Sources

Facts on this page were checked against these publications. Links open in a new tab.

  1. Iowa State University Extension — diagnosing houseplant problems improper environmental conditions yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu
  2. Iowa State University Extension — diagnosing houseplant problems related poor culture yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu
  3. UC Statewide IPM Program ipm.ucanr.edu