A houseplant reference: a care card for every plant
Leaf with white cottony mealybugs and a cotton swab
Section

Houseplant Pests

Spider mites, mealybugs, scale, aphids, thrips and bugs in the soil: how to identify them and what actually works.

Spider mitesMealybugsScaleAphidsThripsBugs in soil

Houseplant pests are best handled in this order: identify the pest from the signs it leaves, isolate the plant, remove as many insects as you can by rinsing or wiping, then treat with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil labeled for the plant, repeating every 5 to 10 days for 3 to 4 weeks because sprays do not kill eggs. Quarantining new plants for a few weeks prevents most infestations in the first place.

Most pests arrive on a new plant or on plants brought in from a summer outdoors. Once inside, warm rooms and no natural enemies let them breed year round. The good news: the common ones are well studied, and the same few methods work for most of them. UC IPM's Houseplant Problems Pest Notes and Iowa State University Extension are the backbone of this section.

Identify the pest by its signs

What you seePestWhat worksTreatments
Fine webbing, tiny pale speckles, dull or bronzed leavesSpider mitesStrong rinse, raise humidity, insecticidal soap or horticultural oil on leaf undersidesEvery 5 to 7 days for 3 to 4 weeks
White cottony clumps in leaf joints, sticky leavesMealybugsAlcohol on a cotton swab, then soap or oil; systemic for heavy casesWeekly for 4+ weeks
Brown or tan bumps along stems and veins, sticky leavesScaleScrape or wipe off, then horticultural oilEvery 10 to 14 days, several rounds
Clusters of small green, black or pink insects on new growthAphidsRinse off, insecticidal soapWeekly, 2 to 3 rounds
Silvery streaks, black specks, distorted new leavesThripsRinse, insecticidal soap, blue or yellow sticky trapsEvery 5 to 7 days for 3 to 4 weeks
Tiny white moths flying up from leaf undersidesWhitefliesYellow sticky traps, soap or oil on undersidesEvery 5 to 7 days
Small dark flies around the pot, larvae in wet soilFungus gnatsDrier soil, sticky traps, larval treatmentSee PestFact
Small bugs crawling in the soilBugs in soilDepends on the bug; many are harmlessIdentify first

Fungus gnats: see PestFact

Fungus gnats are the most common houseplant "bug" of all, but they are a household pest topic, and our sister site PestFact covers them in depth: fungus gnats explained, including how to break the larval cycle in the soil. The short version for plant owners: they breed in soil that stays wet, so letting the top inch or two dry between waterings is the most important step.

A protocol that works for most pests

  1. Isolate the plant as soon as you see pests and inspect every plant that stood near it.
  2. Remove what you can: prune the worst leaves, rinse the plant in the shower or sink, and wipe mealybugs and scale off with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
  3. Spray insecticidal soap or horticultural oil (including neem oil) labeled for houseplants, covering leaf undersides, stems and leaf joints until wet.
  4. Repeat on the interval in the table for 3 to 4 weeks. Sprays do not kill eggs, and a single treatment just resets the clock.
  5. Keep checking weekly for a month after the last pest is gone before returning the plant to its spot.

UC IPM recommends trying soap or horticultural oil before other insecticides, avoiding broad-spectrum, long-lasting products indoors, and spraying outdoors when possible so the residue stays out of the house. For stubborn mealybugs and scale, a soil-applied systemic insecticide is an option, but Iowa State cautions that granules may be a poor choice where pets or children dig in pots. See systemic insecticides and neem oil for details.

Safety indoors

  • The label is the law: use only products that list houseplants or your plant, and follow the rates.
  • Test any spray on one leaf and wait 24 hours. Ferns, some succulents and fuzzy-leaved plants are easily damaged by soaps and oils.
  • Spray in a ventilated room or outside, wear gloves and keep pets and children away until leaves are dry.

Prevention

Inspect plants before you buy, including leaf undersides and the root ball. Keep new plants apart from your collection for two to three weeks, check plants coming back indoors in fall, and rinse foliage occasionally; UC IPM notes regular washing prevents many infestations. A strong plant in the right light recovers much faster, so fix care problems too: see houseplant problems and care basics.

Frequently asked questions

What are the tiny white bugs on my houseplant?
Cottony white clumps in leaf joints and under leaves are mealybugs. Tiny white flying insects that rise in a cloud when you brush the plant are whiteflies. Small white, fast-moving specks on wet soil are usually springtails, which feed on organic matter and are harmless to the plant.
Why are my plant's leaves sticky?
Sticky, shiny leaves (and sticky furniture under the plant) are honeydew, the sugary waste of sap-sucking insects: scale, mealybugs, aphids or whiteflies. Look on stems and the undersides of leaves for the insects themselves. Black sooty mold may grow on the honeydew.
Does neem oil work on houseplant pests?
Neem oil is a horticultural oil and can help against soft-bodied pests such as mealybugs, aphids, whiteflies and spider mites if it covers them directly. It has no lasting effect, so it must be repeated, and like any oil it can damage sensitive leaves; test on one leaf first.
Can I use rubbing alcohol on mealybugs?
Yes, for light infestations. Dab individual mealybugs and scale with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. It removes the insects you can see but not hidden ones or eggs, so combine it with repeat soap or oil treatments.
How do I get rid of fungus gnats?
Let the top inch or two of soil dry out between waterings, use yellow sticky traps for the adults and treat the larvae in the soil. Our sister site PestFact has a full guide to fungus gnats.
Should I throw away an infested plant?
Sometimes it is the sensible choice. Heavy mealybug or scale infestations are very hard to clear, and UC IPM notes that discarding a badly infested plant can be better than risking the rest of your collection. Take clean cuttings first if the plant matters to you.

Sources

Facts on this page were checked against these publications. Links open in a new tab.

  1. Iowa State University Extension yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu
  2. pestfact.com pestfact.com
  3. UC Statewide IPM Program ipm.ucanr.edu