Philodendron care

Philodendrons are easy houseplants: give them bright indirect light, water when the top 1-2 inches of soil are dry, and keep them in a warm room between 65 and 85°F. Heartleaf philodendron also tolerates low light better than almost anything else, which is why it has been an office and apartment staple for decades.

There are hundreds of species, from small trailing heartleaf plants to tree philodendrons several feet wide. The care basics are shared; the differences come down to whether your plant climbs or grows from a central crown.

Climbing vs self-heading philodendrons

Clemson Extension separates heartleaf philodendrons, larger "tree" types with dramatic foliage, and red-leaf varieties with burgundy or orange-tinted new growth. For care, the useful split is:

Common confusions:

• Pothos vs heartleaf philodendron: pothos leaves are thicker with a groove along the stalk; philodendron new leaves emerge from a papery sheath called a cataphyll. See pothos.
• Monstera: often sold as "split-leaf philodendron." It is a different genus; see monstera vs philodendron.

Light

Clemson notes most philodendrons prefer indirect or curtain-filtered sunlight but tolerate low light, and that heartleaf types can thrive under artificial light. The RHS recommends bright but indirect light and keeping plants out of direct summer sun, which scorches leaves.

• East window or 3-6 ft from a south or west window: ideal.
• North window: fine for heartleaf and 'Brasil'.
• Interior office under fluorescent or LED lighting: heartleaf survives and grows slowly.
• Variegated types ('Pink Princess', 'Birkin', 'Brasil') need the brighter end to keep their color.

Signs of too little light: small new leaves, long gaps between them, and variegation fading. See houseplant light.

Watering

Clemson advises watering often enough to keep soil evenly moist but not soggy and never letting plants stand in water. The RHS suggests letting the compost surface dry between waterings. A practical middle ground: water thoroughly when the top 1-2 inches are dry.

Heartleaf types tolerate drying out more than velvet-leaf species like 'Micans', which wilt quickly. Our watering guide explains checking soil by feel and pot weight.

Temperature and humidity

Clemson gives ideal night temperatures of 65-70°F and days of 75-85°F; the RHS sets a minimum of about 59°F and warns against hot radiators and cold drafts. Keep plants away from exterior doors in winter.

The RHS notes philodendrons prefer moderate humidity but are perfectly happy in the lower humidity of most homes. Velvet-leaf species ('Micans', P. gloriosum, P. melanochrysum) are the exception; they do better at 50% or more. See humidity.

Soil and repotting

Use a chunky, well-aerated mix: about two parts potting soil to one part orchid bark and one part perlite. Repot every 1-2 years in spring when roots circle the pot, going up 1-2 inches. Self-heading types become wide and heavy; use a stable pot. See repotting and soil.

Fertilizer

Clemson recommends fertilizing regularly with dilute water-soluble houseplant fertilizer or a time-release product; the RHS suggests feeding from April through September. Pale new growth on an otherwise healthy plant in good light often means it is hungry. See fertilizer.

Moss poles and training

Climbing philodendrons produce larger, more mature leaves when they can climb. The RHS notes they will root into a moss pole if it is kept moist. Tie stems to the pole with soft ties so the aerial roots face it, and mist or water the pole occasionally. For a step-by-step setup, see moss poles. Trailing heartleaf plants can also simply hang from a shelf, which suits trailing plants displays.

Yellow leaves and other problems

Clemson notes that yellowing lower leaves and dying growing tips can be caused by too little light or overwatering. How to tell which:

• One older leaf at a time, rest of the plant fine: normal aging.
• Several leaves yellowing, soil wet for days, stems soft: overwatering; check for root rot.
• Pale, small new leaves and long stems: low light.
• Brown crispy edges: too dry or very dry air.

See yellow leaves for a broader guide. Pests listed by Clemson include aphids, mealybugs and spider mites; see mealybugs and spider mites.

Propagating philodendron

Vining philodendrons are among the easiest plants to propagate. The RHS recommends stem cuttings from spring to late summer and notes they root in water in a couple of weeks.

1. Cut a stem section with at least one node (the bump where leaf and aerial root emerge) and 1-2 leaves.
2. Place it in water or moist perlite with the node submerged or buried.
3. Keep in bright indirect light; change water weekly.
4. Pot when roots are 1-2 inches long.

Self-heading types are propagated by division or by separating offsets. Illinois Extension notes propagation can be done in any season. More in propagation.

Is philodendron toxic to pets?

Yes. The ASPCA lists heartleaf philodendron as toxic to cats, dogs and horses and split-leaf and tree philodendrons as toxic to cats and dogs. The toxic principle is insoluble calcium oxalates, which cause oral irritation, pain and swelling of the mouth, drooling, vomiting and difficulty swallowing. If a pet chews one, call your vet or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435; for children, Poison Control at 1-800-222-1222. Hang trailing plants out of reach. See toxic plants.

Seasonal care calendar

Popular philodendrons and their quirks

Variegated and rare cultivars sell for more because stable variegation is slower to propagate and demand has outpaced supply; prices fall as tissue-culture plants reach the market.

Buying a philodendron

• Check new growth for healthy size and color; small, pale new leaves suggest the plant has been in low light.
• Look under leaves and in leaf axils for mealybugs.
• For variegated plants, choose stems where the newest leaves show balanced variegation; all-green newest leaves indicate reversion.
• Self-heading types should have a single firm crown without soft spots.

Common mistakes

1. Overwatering in a dim room. Low light means slow water use; water less, not on schedule.
2. Moving it into direct sun to fix legginess. Leaves scorch; choose bright indirect light instead.
3. Ignoring the moss pole. Climbers left to sprawl produce smaller leaves.
4. Cutting without a node. Leaf-only cuttings root but rarely grow a new plant.
5. Placing trailing plants within reach of cats and dogs. All philodendrons are toxic to pets.

Growing philodendron in low light

Heartleaf philodendron is one of the few houseplants that genuinely tolerates offices and north-facing rooms. To keep it looking good in low light:

• Water less often. In dim spots the mix may stay moist for two weeks or more; check before watering.
• Skip most feeding. Two or three half-strength feedings a year are enough.
• Trim long bare stems and root the tips back into the pot to keep it full.
• Wipe leaves monthly so dust does not block what little light there is.
• Add a desk lamp with an LED bulb on a 10-12 hour timer if growth stops entirely.

Variegated cultivars and self-heading types need brighter conditions; in low light they lose color and stretch. For more options for dim rooms, see low-light plants.

Philodendron in water and semi-hydro

Cuttings rooted in water can stay there for months, which is a popular way to grow heartleaf philodendron on shelves. Change the water every week or two and add a very dilute liquid fertilizer once a month. Long term, plants grow better in soil or in a semi-hydro setup with clay pebbles and a nutrient solution; see hydroponics if you want to try it.

Which philodendron to choose

• Low light, beginner: heartleaf or 'Brasil'.
• Bright room, want a statement plant: a self-heading type such as Xanadu, see large houseplants.
• Collector's color: 'Pink Princess' or 'Prince of Orange', with the brightest indirect light you have.
• Similar look, pet-safe: none of the philodendrons qualify; consider a prayer plant or spider plant.