
Peace Lily Plant Care: The Complete Guide
Spathiphyllum spp. · Spath, White sails, Closet plant
Peace lily plant care made specific: distance from a window, when to water by the droop, 65–85°F, why it won't bloom, brown tips, repotting and pet toxicity.
Updated October 15, 2026- Bright indirect light for blooms; tolerates low light (no direct midday sun)
- When the top 1 inch is dry or leaves begin to sag; every 5–7 days in summer, 10–14 in winter
- Difficulty: Easy
- Toxic to dogs and cats per ASPCA (insoluble calcium oxalates)
- Light
- Bright indirect light for blooms; tolerates low light (no direct midday sun)
- Water
- When the top 1 inch is dry or leaves begin to sag; every 5–7 days in summer, 10–14 in winter
- Temperature
- 65–85°F by day, about 10°F cooler at night; keep above 60°F
- Humidity
- 40–60%; tips brown below about 30%
- Soil
- Peat- or coir-based potting mix with 20–30% perlite or bark; pot with drainage
- Difficulty
- Easy
- Toxicity
- Toxic to dogs and cats per ASPCA (insoluble calcium oxalates)
- Blooms
- Mainly spring to early summer; each white spathe lasts 4–8 weeks
Peace lily plant care comes down to three things: bright indirect light, watering when the top inch of mix dries (or the leaves just begin to sag), and temperatures between 65 and 85°F. Get those right and a peace lily is one of the easiest flowering houseplants you can grow; get the light wrong and it stays green forever, get the water wrong and it either faints or rots.
Peace lilies are Spathiphyllum, a genus of roughly 40 species from the understory of tropical American rainforests (two come from Southeast Asia). The "flower" is a white modified leaf, the spathe, wrapped around a spike of tiny true flowers. Store plants are mostly hybrids, from compact desk types under 16 inches to big floor cultivars like 'Sensation' that reach 4–5 feet.
Peace lily at a glance
| Need | What works in a US home |
|---|---|
| Light | Bright indirect; 3–6 ft from an east or north window, or set back from south/west glass |
| Water | When the top 1 inch is dry; every 5–7 days summer, 10–14 winter |
| Temperature | 65–85°F, keep above 60°F, never below 55°F |
| Humidity | 40–60% ideal; tolerates average home air |
| Soil | Peat- or coir-based mix + perlite or fine bark |
| Feeding | Balanced liquid at 1/4 strength every 6–8 weeks, spring–summer |
| Repotting | Every 1–2 years, only 1–2 inches wider |
| Pets | Toxic to cats and dogs (ASPCA) |
Light: survive vs. bloom
The Clemson Home & Garden Information Center puts it plainly: peace lilies tolerate low light but grow best in bright indirect light. That difference matters. In a dark hallway the plant keeps its leaves, grows slowly and almost never flowers. Near a window it pushes new leaves every few weeks and sends up spathes.
A practical decision rule:
- North window: right on the sill or within 2–3 ft.
- East window: 2–5 ft back; morning sun is fine.
- South or west window: 6+ ft back or behind a sheer curtain. Afternoon sun bleaches and scorches the leaves in a single summer day.
- No good window: a full-spectrum LED grow light 12–18 inches above the plant for 10–12 hours a day.
Leaves that lean hard toward the window and stay small mean too little light. Pale, washed-out leaves with brown patches mean too much.
Watering: let the plant tell you
The peace lily is famous for its dramatic droop. When the mix dries out, the whole plant collapses, and a few hours after a good drink it stands back up. That makes it forgiving, but don't use collapse as your routine signal: every full wilt costs a little leaf tissue, and repeated wilting leaves permanent crisp edges and brown tips.

Better: check with a finger. When the top inch is dry, or the leaves just start to lose their stiffness, water.
- Water slowly until it runs out of the drainage holes.
- Let it drain for 10–15 minutes and empty the saucer.
- Expect every 5–7 days in summer, 10–14 days in winter when growth slows and central heating is on — but the finger test overrides the calendar.
South Dakota State University Extension recommends room-temperature water that has stood overnight so chlorine can dissipate. Peace lilies are among the houseplants most sensitive to chemicals in water: fluoride, chlorine and salts from water softeners all show up as brown tips. Filtered, rain or distilled water solves most tip problems; if you use tap water, flush the pot thoroughly every couple of months.
The one deadly mistake is the opposite: a pot that never dries. If the plant droops while the soil is wet, the roots are rotting and can't take up water. Adding more water at that point is what kills most peace lilies.
Temperature and humidity
Clemson gives an optimum of 68–85°F by day with nights about 10°F cooler, and warns against temperatures below 60°F. SDSU notes the plant can't tolerate prolonged exposure to 55°F or lower. In practice that means:
- Keep it away from drafty entry doors and from window glass in January.
- Don't put it in front of AC vents in summer or right next to heating registers in winter.
- When summering outdoors, wait until nights stay above 60°F. Peace lilies are only hardy in USDA zones 10–12.
Humidity of 40–60% is ideal, but most plants adapt to average indoor air. If tips brown every winter, a humidifier helps more than misting, which raises humidity for minutes, not hours.
Soil, pot and repotting
Use a peat- or coir-based indoor potting mix and add 20–30% perlite or fine orchid bark for air. The roots need moisture and oxygen at the same time; dense, compacted mix stays wet in the middle and rots them. Any pot works as long as it has drainage holes.
Peace lilies like being a little snug, and slightly root-bound plants flower more readily. Repot when roots circle the surface or come out of the drainage holes — usually every 1–2 years — and, as Clemson advises, go only 1–2 inches wider. Spring and early summer are best because the plant recovers fastest.

Dividing a large plant:
- Water the day before so the root ball holds together.
- Slide the plant out and find natural crowns, each with its own leaves and roots.
- Pull or cut them apart with a clean knife; aim for at least 3–4 leaves per division.
- Pot each division in fresh mix at the same depth, water, and keep out of direct sun for 1–2 weeks.
Peace lilies don't grow from leaf or stem cuttings; division is the home propagation method.
Fertilizer
Peace lilies are light feeders. Clemson recommends a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer (such as 20-20-20) at one-quarter strength every 6–8 weeks during spring and summer. Overfeeding shows up quickly as brown tips and burned roots. Skip feeding from late fall through winter.
Why won't my peace lily bloom?
Most store peace lilies arrive in full flower because growers treat them with gibberellic acid, a plant hormone that forces blooming. Once that wears off, the plant blooms on its own schedule — typically spring into early summer — and only when mature and well lit. Check in this order:
- Light. The number one cause. Move it closer to a window.
- Age. Divisions and young plants often need a year.
- Pot size. A big jump in pot size means a year of root growth instead of flowers.
- Fertilizer. High-nitrogen food gives lush leaves, few spathes.
- Season. Winter blooms are rare in US homes.
Each spathe lasts 4–8 weeks, turning greenish as it ages. Cut the stalk at its base once it fades. Our peace lily not blooming guide goes deeper.
Brown tips and yellow leaves

Brown or black tips are almost always cultural rather than a disease: salts, fluoride, chlorine, overfeeding, dry air, or the plant wilting too often. Trim them with clean scissors following the leaf's shape; the brown won't turn green again.
Yellow leaves need context. One old leaf at the bottom yellowing occasionally is normal aging. Several leaves at once with wet soil points to overwatering; yellowing between veins on newer leaves suggests magnesium or iron deficiency, which Clemson lists among peace lily problems. See peace lily yellow leaves for a full diagnosis, plus our general guides on yellow leaves and brown tips.
Pests
Peace lilies are fairly pest-resistant. The usual suspects are mealybugs in leaf bases, spider mites in dry winter air, and scale. Fungus gnats show up when the mix stays wet; letting the top inch dry is usually enough. For persistent gnats, see our sister site's guide to fungus gnats.
Is a peace lily toxic to pets and kids?
Yes. The ASPCA lists peace lily as toxic to dogs and cats. The toxic principle is insoluble calcium oxalates; signs include oral irritation, intense burning of the mouth, tongue and lips, drooling, vomiting and difficulty swallowing.
One important distinction: the peace lily is not a true lily. True lilies (Lilium) and daylilies (Hemerocallis) can cause fatal kidney failure in cats; the peace lily causes painful mouth irritation, not kidney damage. It is still a plant to keep out of reach of chewers.
If a pet chews it, call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435. If a child eats part of the plant, call Poison Control at 1-800-222-1222 — Poison Control's plant list covers common houseplants. For more safe options, see pet-safe plants.
Does a peace lily clean the air?
The peace lily appears in the 1989 NASA chamber study, which is why it shows up on every "air-purifying plants" list. In a sealed test chamber, plants and their potting soil did remove some VOCs. In a real home with normal air exchange, the effect is negligible: a widely cited review by Cummings and Waring of 12 chamber studies estimated you'd need 10 to 1,000 plants per square meter of floor space to match the air cleaning that ordinary ventilation already provides. Grow a peace lily because it is attractive and easy, not as an air purifier.
Where it fits
The peace lily is a natural pick for low-light plants, office plants and bedroom plants. If it struggles, compare with other forgiving foliage plants like pothos, the ZZ plant and cast iron plant. For a similar look with red or pink spathes, try anthurium, which needs more light. New to houseplants? Start with our houseplant care basics.
Something wrong? Symptoms and causes
| Symptom | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Whole plant collapses, soil is dry | Thirst — the classic peace lily signal | Water thoroughly until it drains; leaves lift within a few hours. Don't let it happen weekly — repeated collapses leave crisp brown edges. |
| Plant droops but soil is wet | Root rot: damaged roots can't take up water | Unpot, cut off brown mushy roots, repot in fresh airy mix, water lightly and wait for the top inch to dry. |
| Brown or black leaf tips with a thin yellow band | Salt buildup, fluoride or chlorine in tap water, overfeeding, or very dry air | Flush the pot with 2–3 times its volume of water, switch to filtered or rain water, feed at 1/4 strength, raise humidity. |
| Older lower leaves yellow one at a time | Normal leaf aging | Cut the leaf off at the base. No action needed if new leaves are healthy. |
| Many leaves yellowing at once, soil soggy | Overwatering or a pot without drainage | Let the mix dry to 1 inch down before watering; move to a pot with holes. See our yellow-leaves guide. |
| Yellow between veins on newer leaves | Magnesium or iron shortage, often from alkaline hard water | Use a complete fertilizer with micronutrients; flush salts; consider filtered water. |
| No flowers for over a year | Too little light, plant under a year old, or high-nitrogen feeding | Move closer to a bright window, keep it slightly root-bound, feed lightly in spring. |
| Flowers turn green | Normal at the end of a bloom's life | Cut the stalk at its base once it fades. |
| Pale, bleached or brown patches mid-leaf | Direct sun scorch | Move out of direct afternoon sun or behind a sheer curtain. |
| Small new leaves, slow growth, roots out of holes | Severely root-bound and depleted mix | Repot in spring into a pot 1–2 inches wider, or divide. |
| White crust on soil and pot rim | Mineral salts from tap water and fertilizer | Scrape off the top layer and flush thoroughly. |
| Fine webbing, stippled leaves | Spider mites in dry, warm air | Shower the leaves, raise humidity, treat with insecticidal soap per label, repeat weekly. |
| Cottony white clumps in leaf bases | Mealybugs | Dab with 70% isopropyl alcohol, then follow up with insecticidal soap. |
| Tiny flies around the pot | Fungus gnats breeding in constantly wet mix | Let the top inch dry out between waterings; use yellow sticky traps. |
Diagnosis by symptom for any plant: Problems. Bugs on the leaves or in the soil: Pests.
Frequently asked questions
How often should I water a peace lily?
Can a peace lily live in low light?
Is a peace lily toxic to cats and dogs?
Why are the tips of my peace lily turning brown?
Should I cut off brown or green peace lily flowers?
How do I get my peace lily to bloom again?
Does a peace lily purify the air?
Can I grow a peace lily in water only?
Sources
Facts on this page were checked against these publications. Links open in a new tab.
- ASPCA Toxic and Non-Toxic Plant List www.aspca.org
- Clemson Cooperative Extension (HGIC) hgic.clemson.edu
- extension.sdstate.edu extension.sdstate.edu
- Nature Portfolio www.nature.com
- pestfact.com pestfact.com
- poison.org www.poison.org
More plants

Pothos
Epipremnum aureum- Bright indirect; east or west window, south behind a sheer; tolerates medium light, variegated types fade in shade
- When the top 1–2 in. are dry: about every 5–8 days in summer, every 10–14 days in winter
- Toxic to dogs and cats (ASPCA): insoluble calcium oxalates; sap can irritate skin

Snake plant
Dracaena trifasciata (syn. Sansevieria trifasciata)- Low to bright indirect; tolerates some direct sun
- When soil is fully dry: every 2–3 weeks summer, 4–8 weeks winter
- Toxic to cats and dogs (ASPCA): saponins

ZZ plant
Zamioculcas zamiifolia- Low to bright indirect; no hot direct sun
- When fully dry: every 2–3 weeks summer, 4–6 weeks winter
- Toxic if eaten (calcium oxalates); not pet-safe

Anthurium
Anthurium andraeanum hybrids- Bright indirect, 3–5 ft from an east or west window; no hot direct sun
- When the top 1–2 in. are dry; about every 7–10 days; less in winter
- ASPCA: toxic to dogs, cats and horses (insoluble calcium oxalates)