A houseplant reference: a care card for every plant
Rex begonia with variegated silver and burgundy leaves in a ceramic pot

Begonia care as a houseplant

Begonia spp. · rex begonia, angel wing begonia, wax begonia, painted-leaf begonia

Begonia houseplant care by type: rex, angel wing, rhizomatous and tuberous. Light, watering, 65-75°F rooms, humidity without misting, and powdery mildew fixes.

Updated October 15, 2026
Care card
  • Bright indirect; flowering types tolerate gentle morning sun
  • When the surface is dry to the touch; never leave wet
  • Difficulty: Moderate
  • Toxic to cats, dogs and horses (ASPCA)
Full care card
Light
Bright indirect; flowering types tolerate gentle morning sun
Water
When the surface is dry to the touch; never leave wet
Temperature
65-75°F; keep above 55°F at night
Humidity
High for rex; raise with a humidifier, not misting
Soil
Light, peat- or coir-based mix with perlite; must drain well
Difficulty
Moderate
Toxicity
Toxic to cats, dogs and horses (ASPCA)
Blooms
Cane and wax types bloom much of the year; rex mainly winter to spring

Begonias grow well as houseplants when they get bright indirect light, soil that is evenly moist but never soggy, warm rooms around 65-75°F, and humidity raised without wetting the leaves. Each begonia group has its own quirks: rex begonias are fussy about humidity and cold, angel wing types need regular pruning, and tuberous begonias need a winter rest.

There are well over a thousand begonia species and many more hybrids, so the first step is knowing which kind you have. This card covers care for all the main indoor groups. For a field guide to individual varieties, see begonia types.

Begonia groups at a glance

The RHS groups indoor begonias into fibrous-rooted, cane-stemmed, rhizomatous and semi-tuberous types. Clemson Extension divides them into flowering and foliage begonias and adds tuberous, Lorraine (Christmas) and Elatior types.

GroupExampleGrown forHow to recognize it
Cane-stemmedAngel wing, 'Lucerna', B. maculataSpotted wing-shaped leaves, hanging flower clustersBamboo-like jointed stems
RhizomatousRex, 'Iron Cross' (B. masoniana), eyelash begoniaColorful, textured leavesThick stem creeping along the soil
Fibrous / shrubWax begonia, B. metallicaFlowers or metallic leavesBushy, many thin stems
Semi-tuberous / Elatior (Rieger)Florist's Rieger begoniaBig flowers, winter colorSold in bloom, often treated as temporary
TuberousHanging basket begoniasLarge rose-like flowers in summerDies back to a tuber in fall

Colorado State Extension points out that cane begonias have jointed stems with a leaf and/or flower cluster at every joint, and that identifying a cane begonia down to the cultivar is often difficult because there are so many. For care, the group matters far more than the exact name.

Light

  • Rex and other foliage begonias: bright indirect light, out of direct sun. An east window or a few feet back from a south window.
  • Cane and fibrous flowering types: bright light with a little morning sun; Clemson suggests early morning sun in an east window for flowering begonias.
  • All types: hot afternoon sun through glass bleaches and scorches the leaves.

Too little light shows up as long gaps between leaves, small leaves and no flowers. Rotate the pot a quarter turn each week so cane types grow evenly. See light.

Watering

Clemson's guidance is to keep the soil evenly moist, letting it dry only slightly between waterings, and to avoid wet or waterlogged soil. The RHS warns that overwatering is a common cause of loss. In practice:

  • Water when the top half inch to inch feels dry.
  • Water at the soil, not over the leaves.
  • Empty saucers after 15 minutes.
  • In winter, water less; rex begonias in particular slow down.
  • Tuberous begonias: stop watering in fall as they die back.

Begonia stems and rhizomes are succulent and rot quickly in a heavy, wet mix. If you have killed begonias before, overwatering is the likely reason. More on technique in watering.

Temperature and humidity

Clemson recommends 66-73°F with night temperatures not below 55°F. The RHS gives a minimum of about 55°F for rex and B. masoniana. Begonias dislike cold glass, drafts, and spots right above heat registers.

Humidity is where many growers go wrong. Begonias like humid air, but Clemson specifically says misting is not recommended; mist the air around the plant instead, or better, use other methods:

  • A small humidifier near a group of plants; rex begonias benefit most.
  • Pebble trays with water below the pot base.
  • Grouping plants together.
  • Growing small rex begonias in a terrarium or cabinet.

See humidity for details.

Soil and repotting

Use a light, airy mix: peat- or coir-based potting mix with plenty of perlite. Begonias have fine roots and like small pots; move up only 1 inch at a time, usually in spring when roots fill the pot. Rex and other rhizomatous begonias do well in wide, shallow pots. See repotting.

Fertilizer

Clemson recommends a balanced liquid fertilizer at half strength at alternate waterings while the plant is in full growth. Reduce or stop in winter, especially for rex begonias. Too much nitrogen on flowering types gives leaves at the expense of blooms. See fertilizer.

Pruning angel wing and cane begonias

Cane begonias grow tall and lose lower leaves with age. Clemson advises cutting back overly long stems in spring or early summer to encourage new growth at the base; cutting one or two of the oldest canes low each year keeps the plant full. Pinch the tips of young canes to encourage branching. The cuttings root easily.

Powdery mildew and other diseases

White powdery mildew coating on a begonia leaf

Clemson notes diseases are infrequent in the home, but the RHS warns that begonia mildew can be a problem in damp, over-humid conditions, and stem rot follows soggy soil. Powdery mildew looks like white flour dusted on leaves and stems; the leaf tissue beneath can die.

Prevention is mostly cultural:

  1. Water at the soil, never over leaves.
  2. Do not mist.
  3. Give plants space and gentle air movement; a small fan on low helps.
  4. Remove dead leaves and spent flowers promptly.

If mildew appears, cut off the worst leaves, isolate the plant, and use a fungicide labeled for houseplants or ornamentals if it continues to spread. For general symptom checklists see leaf spots and root rot.

Pests include mealybugs, spider mites, thrips, scale and whiteflies. Treatment guides: mealybugs, spider mites, thrips.

Propagation

Begonia leaf propagation: a leaf with cut veins lying on moist potting mix

The RHS recommends leaf cuttings in late spring for rhizomatous types, stem cuttings in spring for fibrous and cane types, and division of rhizomatous plants in spring.

Stem cuttings (cane, fibrous): the RHS suggests 3-4 inch cuttings in April, inserted in a sandy, peat-free cuttings mix with bottom heat of 64-70°F. Remove the lower leaves first; cane types also root in water.

Leaf cuttings (rex):

  1. Take a healthy mature leaf.
  2. Cut the leaf stalk off and, with a sharp blade, cut through the major veins about 1 inch apart (RHS).
  3. Lay it flat on moist mix and pin it down so the cuts touch the soil.
  4. Cover with a clear lid; keep warm and bright.
  5. Plantlets form at the cuts over the following weeks; be patient and keep the mix only lightly moist.

See propagation for more methods.

Tuberous begonias: keeping tubers over winter

Begonia tubers stored for winter in a box of peat

Tuberous begonias are summer plants. In fall, as days shorten, reduce water and let the foliage die back. Clemson suggests storing tubers over winter in dry peat moss in a cool place. Lift the tubers, let them dry, brush off soil, and keep them somewhere cool and frost-free. In late winter, set them hollow side up in moist mix in a warm, bright spot to restart.

Are begonias toxic to pets?

Yes. The ASPCA lists begonia as toxic to cats, dogs and horses. The toxic principle is soluble calcium oxalates; the ASPCA lists vomiting and salivation in dogs and cats and notes the underground parts are the most toxic. Keep plants and especially stored tubers away from pets. If ingestion happens, call your vet or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435; for children, Poison Control at 1-800-222-1222. See toxic plants.

Seasonal care calendar

SeasonRex and rhizomatousCane and fibrousTuberous
SpringResume feeding; divide or take leaf cuttingsCut back old canes; stem cuttingsStart tubers indoors
SummerBright shade, steady moisture, humidityBright light, feed every other wateringIn bloom; deadhead
FallWater less as growth slowsMove away from cold windowsReduce water, let die back
WinterKeep above 55°F; little feeding; may bloomKeep blooming types in brightest windowStore tubers in dry peat, cool and dry

Buying a begonia

  • Check leaf undersides and stems for mealybugs and white mildew patches before buying; both are common in greenhouses.
  • Avoid plants with soft or blackened stems at the soil line.
  • For rex begonias, pick plants with several new leaves unfurling at the rhizome tip.
  • Rieger and other florist begonias are bred for a long show of flowers; enjoy them for months, but do not expect them to perform like a permanent houseplant.
  • Keep new begonias apart from others for a couple of weeks to watch for pests and mildew.

Begonias outdoors in summer

Many US growers move cane and fibrous begonias to a shaded patio for summer, where humidity and air movement help them. Move them out when nights stay above 55°F, keep them in bright shade, and bring them back before temperatures drop to 55°F in fall. Check for pests before bringing them in.

Common mistakes

  1. Misting for humidity. It is the most common cause of powdery mildew on indoor begonias.
  2. Large pots of dense soil. Fine begonia roots rot in wet, heavy mix.
  3. Direct afternoon sun on rex begonias. Their colorful leaves scorch quickly.
  4. Treating all begonias the same. Tuberous types need a winter rest; rex types need humidity; cane types need pruning.
  5. Never pruning angel wings. Without renewal cuts they become a few tall bare canes.
  6. Watering a resting rex begonia like a growing one. In winter it uses far less water; let the surface dry a little more between waterings.

Choosing a begonia for your home

  • Brightest east window, humidifier running: rex begonias.
  • Bright room, want flowers most of the year: angel wing or other cane begonias.
  • Normal light, little fuss: fibrous types such as B. metallica.
  • Winter gift plant: Rieger begonia; enjoy it for the season.

For more flowering options see flowering houseplants.

Something wrong? Symptoms and causes

SymptomLikely causeWhat to do
White powdery coating on leavesPowdery mildew, favored by wet leaves and still airRemove worst leaves, improve air flow, stop misting; use a labeled houseplant fungicide if it spreads
Stems collapse, black and mushy at soil lineStem rot (Pythium) from soggy soilTake cuttings from healthy tops, discard the base, use a lighter mix
Gray fuzzy mold on flowers and leavesBotrytis gray mold in cool, damp airRemove spent flowers and damaged leaves, increase air movement
Leaf edges brown and crispLow humidity or dry spellsHumidifier or pebble tray; water before the mix dries completely
Leaves bleached or scorchedDirect afternoon sunMove to bright indirect light
Leggy angel wing canes, bare at the baseNatural growth habit plus low lightCut back overly long canes in spring or early summer; root the tops
Buds dropSudden move, drafts or uneven wateringKeep conditions steady while in bud
Rex leaves fading, few new leaves in winterSeasonal slowdown or temperatures below 55°FKeep warm, water less, resume feeding in spring
Speckled leaves with webbingSpider mitesRinse leaf undersides, isolate, insecticidal soap
Cottony clusters on stemsMealybugsAlcohol swab, then insecticidal soap

Diagnosis by symptom for any plant: Problems. Bugs on the leaves or in the soil: Pests.

Frequently asked questions

Are begonias good houseplants?
Yes, especially cane (angel wing), rhizomatous (rex) and fibrous types. They need bright indirect light, even moisture and moderate humidity. Tuberous begonias are better treated as seasonal plants.
How often should I water an indoor begonia?
When the surface of the mix is dry to the touch; Clemson advises keeping it evenly moist, letting it dry only slightly between waterings, and watering less in winter. Never let the pot stand in water.
Should I mist my begonia?
No. Misting wets the leaves and encourages powdery mildew. Use a humidifier, a pebble tray or group plants instead.
Are begonias toxic to cats?
Yes. The ASPCA lists begonia as toxic to cats, dogs and horses; the underground parts are the most toxic. Call your vet or ASPCA Animal Poison Control at (888) 426-4435.
Why are my begonia leaves turning brown?
Crisp brown edges usually mean dry air or a dried-out pot; soft brown patches mean rot or fungal disease; bleached spots mean sun scorch.
Do begonias need sun?
Foliage begonias like rex do best out of direct sun. Flowering types benefit from gentle morning sun in an east window.
Can I keep a tuberous begonia from year to year?
Yes. Let it die back in fall, dry the tubers and store them in dry peat in a cool place, then restart them in late winter.

Sources

Facts on this page were checked against these publications. Links open in a new tab.

  1. ASPCA Toxic and Non-Toxic Plant List www.aspca.org
  2. Clemson Cooperative Extension (HGIC) hgic.clemson.edu
  3. Colorado State University Extension extension.colostate.edu
  4. Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) www.rhs.org.uk